Or Damn, Not Twice
Or
There’s a new moon over my shoulder and a bit of the river still in
my lungs.
Or
“The drums, the drums!”
(I dont really know what that means either. its just some thing left over from
a movie in my youth about some awful adventure or orther)
We finished drifting the first day, beached and the guides made supper, taking the three
hours necessary to make the schedule come out right. It was good. I
don’t know how many of the rafters noted how long the dinner-making
took because one of the first things that was ready was margaritas.
The liquor flowed like water. We sat and talked and got to know each
other. It turned out our boat had a PhD in econ at USC, an aerospace
exec, another aero space high level wonk, a fourth highly educated
computer whatsit, ( I got confused. Well, everyone got confused.
I was just one who got confused without also getting drunk), and me.
(I will have to ask Steve what these guys all were).
We camped in the sand under the trees with a rocky hillside at our
heads. The “head” or rest room by the way was 25 yards up stream, in
a willow screened declivity on the river. This open space worked because
if no one was using it the last user placed a long paddle , propped up against a log.
As you went forward you took the paddle with you, if you valued solitude in these things..
Then on the way out you replaced the paddle.
All this was on the river; I mean “on the river”. That worked because
no one travels the river after a certain time of day, cause the
river flow is dependent on timed releases from the dam. Otherwise you
can’t navigate it. So there you were in gorgeous solitude, (if you took the paddle with you) gazing
beatifically at the swirling river and the verdant growth of the opposite
bank of same river. I’d like to import that idea.
Ok, I was camped under the trees, but as the evening wore on more and
more of the other guests threw air mattresses all over the sandy bank. It
was Omar Khayms “Guests Star scattered on the grass” theme except it
was sand not grass, their being a paucity of that object. Getting up
in the middle of the night required some skill in night time
navigation. It was not to be idly undertaken.
Come morning the boat crews made breakfast. Being a river guide must
be like becoming a Stewardess. There is the glamorous side you
probably had in mind and then there is the cooking, dishwashing,
serving, repairing equipment, setting up and taking down of the
portable toilet and general jollying along, edifying and entertaining
of the guests. They do that well. These men and women have remarkably
diverse backgrounds and are articulate and interesting. They will
surprise you with their depth and breadth. Listening to them and talking to the
other rafters is one of the pleasures of the river.
Things have to run on schedule too. We were up and about by about
6:30 but you can’t float the river till the dam release at about
11:30. so various guides were charming and educational for several
hours and then we paddled across the river to see an abandoned gold
mine. Time was of the essence, the wasting of it that is. We slowly
made our way into the darkened mine shaft, with inadequate light.
The guide pointed out the rusted iron rails. People speculated on what in the
world they could have been used for. Yes they did. I heard them. We reached rock face at
the end of the mine. The guide pointed out that that was where the mine ended. We
wended our way back along the shaft, in three inches of water, past
other uninitiated “guests” still headed for the end of the mine, all
of us thinking of earthquakes, all bumping our heads and shoulders and out
again onto the mountain side,where again the guides showed us Poison Oak
and advised against walking through or handling said substance, and then back
down the side of the mountain/ hill, through the boulder strewn gully, where I
was complimented on for my agility. I like that about as well as I
like young women opening doors for me. Seventy three isn’t the end of
the world. (Well, ok … but not necessarily the very, very end.
Besides since I lost my glasses in an incident a little further into
the story I think I look kind of cute, in a harmless, endearing,
deceptive sort of way) Then onto the rafts and back to camp where we
sat in the rafts and pretended to notice some rise in the water level
while we sauteed in the sun on the slowly sweltereing raft sides and waited for
the water to rise.
Somewhere in all of this carefull time wasting someone, I think It was “Jake”, said, “We
know what you’re doing.” This wasn’t a group to toy with. Every one
was pretty much a professional, some were even intelligent. After a
bit, the requisite time having been wasted, so the time schedule
would work, (pick up at the lower bridge has to be at a certain time)
we pushed off.
I’m easing into this I think because every time I close my eyes I see
enormous green, glassy gorges of rushing water, foam and rocks,
sometimes from an under water view. I occasionally, usually, have to
open my eyes and think of something else. I was afraid I’d have
nightmares. Don’t want to encourage that. The Crocadile dreams are bad enough.
though let me add they didnt come from this trip (or any other)
Hey, we had a guide on the Middle Fork of the American, last year who wanted to guide on a crocidile infested river in India. Does that help understand what kind of people these guides are?
Well, we were astonished at the long wonderful series of rapids
encountered just when we thought it was over. They were just great.
Then in “”Hells Kitchen”, I’m not making this up, our guide chose a
wrong turn, tried to recover by admonishing : “paddle, two, two times
more, two more!” Heaven knows we tried. If any desperate paddlers put their
entire backs and wills into it we did.
We were in a foaming hell of wave and rock. And then we hit the big one on the left and while
sliding up that smashed into the one on the right too. There was a
gap alright but not big enough for us. “High Side!” High side!” the
guide yelled! But we couldn’t decide which side was high. The boat
was shoved under on the right edge. I suddenly found myself in two
feet of water, trying to rise and high side but still sitting, with
my left foot jammed, I mean jammed under the rear thwart, and
securing myself into the raft. As I tried to rise to “high side”,
Jeff or some big one hurtled backwards into my chest. And I was out
and filled with wonderful suprised dread. “Not again”!
Out and under water but desperately trying to snag the boat or the strap running around the
boat, with the T on the end of the paddle. (it seemed like a good idea at the time) It hit but slid off the
slick rounded side. I was able to try again, still from under water because
I seemed to be going no where but under. I felt the T hit but not
engage the strap and looking up thru about a foot of water I vaguely
saw the figure of the guide standing in the end of the boat and
pushed the paddle toward him. He caught it! For just a second I felt hopeful.
I felt him grab and then sort of swirl me. He had twitched me out of the whirlpool.
And then…
he let go. ( Probably because he and Steve both went over the side, ok, fell off the almost verticle raft)
I surfaced, saw two choices. I could try to go for the
raft and risk going under it or be pinned between it and the right
hand mountain of rock or go right and over a waterfall.
Waterfall it was! The experience was roughly like being hurtled down a hall way, pivoted
and sluiced over the stairs. The oddity is that I remember it like
you would a dream, as seeing myself from behind and slightly above.
The mind is a wonder full thing. I remembering dreading hitting a rock atthe bottom of the fall and a wonderful sense of gratitude that I did not. After that I have no Idea of what
happened. The life vest tried to wash from my body but the guide had tightened a strap just before the rapid; though it did sort of hang up on my nose in the strong
current. My glasses, on one of those glasses saver thongs were ripped
off, ( the thongs saved themselves and stayed on my neck)
I was alternately in the bottom of a trough and then at the top, sort of flung up and dropped at first,
breathing foam and gagging on water. The waves were only, I think at
two feet in height at most but they hit irregularly and mostly when I
was trying to breathe. But I didn’t hit anything that I know of.
There is of course the unexplained split lip but cold water takes out
blood.
This time I let the paddle go immediately and surprisingly and eventually
managed to get into the popular, highly recommended, “California Lounge Chair “position
with my legs in front of me. Proud. The ride finnnnnnnallllllly ended with me
sighting two boats deployed to pick up survivors’. The guides take
that stuff seriously. I swept by the first raft but got the second.
Grabbed the coil of rope on the prow and it began unraveling in my
hand and I went for the strap that goes around the whole raft. The
raft was our equipment boat and the lone oarsman, oarswoman actually,
grabbed my life vest straps and just pulled while falling over
backwards. Fish out of water!
it was nice lying there on my face in the sun on top of all the baggage.
If you make it, alone and in a vest is really the more intimate way to
fully enjoy the rapids. Sort of like doing the rollercoaster on roller skates.
As we finished the rapids and drifted into still water by the bridge-extraction-point our guide said,” I have something to tell you; I’ve never been down this river before.“
I said, in a calm non judgmental way,
“I figured that out yesterday”.
But I thought he did a remarkable job for the situation. He never became
flustered and managed well on an unpredictable river. After all, in the final section we watched
another raft with the most experienced guide slam up a boulder and
dump two men. That I think is just the reality of a class IV to V
River, especially at low water when the safe routes become few and
hard to find.
In fact I should have been equipped with small flags to
mark the myriad ways I personally pioneered down the river.
It was really a remarkable experience. I’m glad I did it.